Rap and sequins: the audacity of Chanel at the gates of Paris

Vanessa Paradis and Sofia Coppola , among other guests, saw the creations of the “Chanel Métiers d'art” show, a catwalk dedicated to artisans in the 19M space (north of Paris), where feathers and sequins were omnipresent.

Among other pieces, Montex embroideries were seen, with silver sequins inspired by the facades of the architect Rudy Ricciotti, knitwear, cardigans, mauve “total looks” made up of a bodice, culotte pants, jacket and neck bra.

Two-tone, beige and black 'babies' shoes, adorned with pearls and worn with long leather gloves with a mixture of jewels.

The collection is "very urban, but still sophisticated, with tweed blouses that have sweater sleeves, graffiti-like embroidery (...) sets of voluminous knit shorts and casual coats that are worn open," explains Virginie Viard, the Chanel 's artistic director on a note of intent.

The invitation box includes a compilation of texts by French rappers such as MC Solaar or Abd al Malik, and writers such as Sarah Chiche and Anne Berest, which addresses their vision of the different branches of fashion present in the parade.

The film REMEMBERS (inspired by manga and avant-garde animation), which accompanies the collection, presents the know-how of this show from a different point of view.

- More than 6,000 hands -

With a garden and an area of ​​25,500 m2, the 19M takes its name both from the number of the Parisian district where it is located (and to which it hopes to bring some sparkle), and from Coco Chanel's birthday, August 19.

It is hoped that it can also serve as an exhibition space.

After presenting her collection "Chanel Métiers d'art" 2020 virtually with a video, in the midst of a health crisis, on Tuesday, the health measures were draconian.

All the guests had to take a PCR test the day before in order to attend the parade, in addition to having a valid covid passport. It was even requested to wear a mask outside the building.

Chanel has been presenting this type of collection since 2002 with the aim of highlighting fashion know-how.

Since 1985, Chanel has undertaken the acquisition of nearly forty houses of cash-strapped craftsmen in France, Italy, Spain and Scotland, and employs nearly 6,600 people.

These artisans not only work for Chanel, but also with other luxury houses and win back orders for ready-to-wear collections.

“When we started working with these houses, in the years 1985-1990, they were scattered all over Paris. Their workshops became too small for them to continue to develop and attract talent, a new impetus was needed in history," Chanel's president of fashion activities, Bruno Pavlovsky, explained to AFP in 2019.