Why do Korean never use cosmetics with retinol?

"Never use retinol". Tan tajante Y tan sorprendente como suena ha sido en varias ocasiones la experta en belleza y fundadora de la marca de belleza coreana Peach&Lily Alicia Yoon.As a good skin care guru, he has revealed his cosmetic secrets to various media in his country and, recently, the Beauty Byrdie portal, leaving many mouths open by confessing that he never includes any product formulated with retinol in his beauty routine.

If you are wondering: yes, Yoon has a perfect, clear and smooth skin at what can be expected in an expert of Korean beauty.And, apparently, she is not the only one who is committed to eliminating this asset from her cosmetic routine.A quick search on the Miin Cosmetics website (first retailer specialized in Korean beauty in Spain) sheds light on the subject: not a single product in its entire catalog contains retinol because it can cause irritations and adverse reactions if it is not well formulated."It is very difficult to find products with retinol," says Sara Jiménez, director of Miin A s fashion communication and marketing, "in reality it does not only happen with this ingredient: although they use good active ingredients, in Korea they are not very given to put percentagesvery high of acids or other ingredients a bit more 'aggressive' or that they can simply irritate the skin.For example the highest concentration of vitamin C that we find among the references we have is 5%".

Of that 5% of vitamin C to 21%, for example, which we find in brands such as Pixi or The Ordinary (the one with higher concentrations).And from the absence of retinol to a maximum concentration of only 0.3% that is allowed in European regulations - not other derivatives of vitamin A (retinoic acid, retinal, retinoid or retinyl palmitate, among others) thanOften the brands promote in higher concentrations - and that include recognized brands such as Skinceuticals or Medik8.

Why do retinol like here?

"Retinol should not be missing in our facial care routine since, among many of its functions, it is the most powerful active substance in the fight against aging," explain Elena Ramos and Marta Barrero, pharmaceuticals, experts in dermocosmetic and directorsFrom The Secret Lab.They apply it in the treatments they perform in their center and also recommend it to their clients through the cosmetic brands with which they work.And there is not one, but several reasons why his fame has earned both in Europe and in the United, stimulates the synthesis of collagen and elastin, regulates excess fat, closes pore ... For all these benefits, it is recommended for many types and skin conditions (young skins that need it because they have acne, more mature skins for their anti -aging effect…) », They add.

But what would happen yes, like Koreans, we didn't use it?«Nothing‘ serious ’would happen, but we would be depriving our skin of its effects, and if any of them needs in a special way, it will notice their lack.The most accused would be the lack of fat regulation: if it accumulates, it would have effects derived from it (comedones, glitters ...).Non -exfoliation would be noticed that the skin is not so fine and bright.And, of course, the symptoms of aging (pigmentation, thickening of the epidermis, loss of collagen synthesis, etc..) They would develop faster in our skin, ”they point out from The Secret Lab.

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The importance of its formula and application

In spite of all this, or precisely because of this, retinol is one of those delicate ingredients that influence and much in the purpose and destination of the products in whose formulation participate.If its maximum concentration is only 0.3% it is for something: «Being a very powerful asset, we must pay special attention to its formulation, in what way it is and what degree of concentration presents, to avoid possible irritations or reactionsnegative.There are many options of vitamin A molecules and concentrations to reach all types of skins, ”says Ramos and Barrero.

And the same when applying it: as you have heard in many occasions, it is photosensitizer.«Traditionally it was prescribed apply it only at night to avoid the appearance of spots on our skin.However, it is true that the investigation carried out by the great dermocosmetic firms (such as the Medik8 laboratory) and the advances in the formulations, allow the release of retinol in the time that the skin needs at all times, avoiding its oxidation and its lossEffectiveness, ”they clarify from The Secret Lab to s fashion.In addition, it is recommended to always apply it, if done day, next to sun protection.

As for its use and how experts warn: retinol is like wrinkles for wrinkles.The ideal is to start applying it little by little as if it were an exercise routine.And if you go to the gym for the first time, you will have boster.If you exercise for the first time during every day of the week in a row, you will have many hostels and possible injuries: idem with the use of retinol.That is why as Ramos and Barrero recommend: "To introduce it in the facial care routine, we always recommend doing it progressively: apply it during the first week two nights, the second week three nights and then every night".

How do they replace it in Korean beauty?

Without a doubt, we are faced with the reason why Korean cosmetics dispenses with its virtues.Sara Jiménez explains again: “When formulating they are very cautious and, if they believe that something can cause irritation, they put the safety of the skin before.They formulate as if everyone had super sensitive skin, it is something that clashes a lot because in Europe consumers ask for greater concentrations of some ingredients ”.

If what retinol does is swell a dermis that is refined with age due to the lower collagen synthesis that is being degraded, which means stronger, stronger and stronger skin ... in Korea, probably, they are looking for a different effect.This is what Yoon explained in his last interview on the subject: "Thin skin (with a transparent and translucent appearance) is often considered more youthful".And he added: "The other reason is that the care of Korean skin has to do with the consistency and achievement of results over time, rather than dramatic and instantaneously".

If, like her, you decide to take the retinol from your beauty routine, there are certain steps that you cannot skip: «I do not see the anti -aging as something that a product can offer.It is more a holistic approach to skin care (and nutrition and lifestyle).It is about consistency and also guaranteeing that the fundamental pillars of skin care are fulfilled, ”says Yoon.«First, the skin must be properly cleaned.Another pillar those that the skin is properly hydrated.The last pillar is to protect the skin by using an FPS every day and make sure there are many antioxidants in their skin care routine to combat free radicals that can lead to premature aging ».