Why Budapest is the fashionable European city to escape at Christmas

Locals and strangers take to the streets of the Hungarian capital these days and everything lights up: the markets, the Parliament, the nine bridges and the thermal baths, where you can relax in the open air while it snows. It is one of the best moments to discover the Magyar city. And if it is from low cost accommodation, even better.

There are several traditions in Budapest that are repeated every year around these dates and must be respected no matter what. The first is to watch, at least once, one of the (many) movies that television does not stop rerunning about the adventures of the famous Sissi, the ubiquitous Austro-Hungarian empress whose image slips through the city in the form of coasters. , t-shirts, statues, palaces, streets and cakes.

Second Christmas rule: No chicken on New Year's Eve. If not, bad luck all year. Much better lentils (attract money) or pork. And goose, very popular in these parts. The thing about the 12 grapes is not in style either. They prefer to sing the national anthem to the rhythm of the bells and, later, contemplate the fireworks that fly over the spectacular Parliament, perched on the banks of the Danube and one of the architectural landmarks of the Magyar city.

It is clear that saying goodbye to the year contemplating such a fully illuminated giant is a Christmas staple in this city divided in two by the Danube: Buda (the historic, aristocratic, calm area) and Pest (more modern, commercial and bustling). Having dinner crossing the river in a transparent bubble-boat is precisely another of the most popular New Year's Eve proposals. We must also note the Ball of San Silvestre, the gala dinner at the Gundel restaurant, the best in Budapest (and in all of Hungary), and the New Year's Concert at the Opera, whose superb Italian Renaissance-style building was a personal commission of Francisco José I himself, husband of the appellant Sissi.

But if there is a must during the month of December, it is the outdoor Christmas markets. They are open all day, but his thing is to go in the late afternoon to see them illuminated. Among the most outstanding are those of the Basilica of San Esteban, the Városházao Park or the Vörösmarty square, with its 20-meter-high tree and its light and sound show. In all of them one can mark a culinary feast based on traditional Hungarian (street) cuisine. Read XXL-sized sausages, chicken or goose with paprika (here, with paprika), lángos (a kind of fried dumpling to which grated cheese or ham is added) or bejglis, a roll-shaped sweet with poppy seeds, walnuts or Marzipan. To drink, there is no doubt: mulled wine.

Culinary stalls share space with wooden stalls for Santa's gifts. From matryoshka dolls (yes, they are Russian, but they are everywhere...) to embroidery, porcelain or Rubik's cubes, due to the fact that its author was born in Budapest.

THE CITY FROM THE ROOFTOPS

It's time to go up to a rooftop to see the city's Christmas lights from up there. The Matild Palace, a historic Belle Époque building declared a World Heritage Site by Unesco and converted into a new luxury hotel, is a good place. The one at the Marriott next to the river, another.

Both are perfect for staying, but those looking for something cheaper in a central location can opt for A&O Hotels, the Berlin chain that is revolutionizing Europe with its design rooms and low rates. Not surprisingly, their motto is #everbodycantravel, or "everyone can travel," explains Andrei Bota, director of the Budapest offspring. "It seeks to offer quality at a good price," he adds from the 24-hour bar, one of the hallmarks of the 39 low-cost establishments spread over 23 cities on the Old Continent from Vienna to Prague or Amsterdam.

The one in the Hungarian capital opened a year ago on top of an old playing card factory in the VIII district (Budapest has 23 in total) of which it retains original elements such as the tiled floors and the bright central courtyard. "We are targeting young people, but also businessmen, couples or entire families," says Bota. Hence, there are single, double, family and shared rooms from just 15 euros depending on demand. As for expansion plans, Barcelona and Madrid are among A&O's next targets.

The experience of a Budapest at a good price can be completed by flying with the national airline Wizz Air, the largest low cost airline in Europe, which offers flights from Spain starting at 19 euros. It would only be necessary to find economic gifts for Kings. Well, the perfect place is the passage of Gozsdu Udvar, with its shops and stalls of artisan and independent stamp. Paintings, cameras or old books, handbags, handmade scarves and hats, designer lamps... are sold.

THE CHAMPS ELYSEES IN BUDAPEST

The route continues along the emblematic Andrássy Avenue, "the equivalent of the Champs Elysees in Budapest and a clear reminder of imperial Vienna," says Melinda Csonka, guide from the agency specialized in city tours, Cityrama. Illuminated from top to bottom, it's time to see its restaurants, luxury shops, cafes and bookstores in all their splendor.

The tour can continue at the Central Market, with its Art Deco imprint and its local delicatessen such as salami, goose liver pâté or paprika. As a climax, you cannot miss a dip in one of the thermal baths that dot the city such as Gellert, Ruda or Széchenyi. Diving into its waters at a minimum of 40 degrees while outside the thermometer is close to five (at most) and it is beginning to snow is priceless...

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