The new synthetic skins, present and future of fashion
Este tema sobre pieles sintéticas fue publicado en el número de octubre del 2021 del Vogue España
There was a time when carrying a skins coat was a symbol of bonanza and style.The collective imaginary is full of images, many of them cinematographic (how to forget Gwyneth Paltrow as Margot Tenenbaum wrapped in a fluffy light brown coat?), That they reaffirm an idea that, for a few years, is in question.Now, in 2021, some would profile it as anachronistic, but nothing is further from reality.The fighting farms remain a reality that has returned to the foreground of the controversy by the health crisis lived since 2020 and that caused that, for example, Denmark sacrificed some seventeen million minks infected with COVID-19.In Spain, the figure stayed in the thousands, but reoriented the attention of environmental groups and activists to Galicia, where they are between twenty and thirty farms that, despite their requests, are still active.Of course, they cannot, according to a judgment of the Supreme Court of 2016, expand their capacity (neither is the creation of new ones).A clear limit to a sector that, despite transforming by changing the type of orders they make, is questioned about ethical and environmental issues.According to a CE Delft report, prepare five synthetic leather coats has a significantly lower impact on the environment than to perform a single vision -skinned coat.This fact goes beyond the punctual, since firms that include environmental issues in their policies are increasingly numerous.Thus, the fighting industry is ceasing to have the complete approval of the heavy weights of fashion, increasingly open to exploring another way of understanding its productions and designs.Some names that make up that list that is gradually growing?Gucci, Burberry, Versace, Armani, Prada, Balenciaga or Valentino, of recent incorporation, since he announced his adherence to this Free Free movement in May 2021.Its objective, as reflected in a statement, is that it is a reality in 2022, since they are "advancing in the search for different materials with the perspective of paying greater attention to the environment".Clearer, water.
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In this fight Stella McCartney is perhaps the most important Adalid.The British designer has been working for years to create (and sponsor) a more sustainable industry, even meeting, within the framework of the G7 held last June, both with the Prince of Wales and with different political leaders and businessmen, to activate plans about."My goal is to promote change, promote investments and create a lasting difference through incentives that support the next generation," McCartney said, insisting on the need to transform that message into "policies that bring us closer to the creation of aSociety free of cruelty, that is friendlier with all creatures, Mother Earth, and among us ".
The designer is known for having a cruelty -free sign.Therefore, they devote time to the investigation of new materials to work with, among which are their fur-free fur, a material that emulates the skin and that, in addition, is responsible with the environment."We continue to seek sustainable and biodegradable solutions as part of our modern ethics, and we are focused on creating the next generation of synthetic skin," they explain from the brand."We work with a new material called Koba®, which we have developed together with Dupont and our largest synthetic skin supplier".The company centered in innovations found the Duponttm Sorona fibers, which together with the knowing howthorough standards of the creative director.37% of this material is of plant origin, which, according to the artisans of these new skins, represents a 33% energy reduction and 63% of greenhouse gas emissions.A revolution with respect to the beginnings of this industry, where the use of plastics and the fact that products were not biodegradable, could be understood as a handicap.In the composition of Koba® there is also bioplastic and recycled polyester;On its outside, a realistic and "luxurious aspect".And all this, without animals having to be part of the process at any time.
The recycled polyester is also an essential part of the synthetic skin that they use in Shrimps, a British origin firm launched in 2013 and led by Hannah Weiland."We started with just one piece, and it was a synthetic leather coat," says the creative director.“It was the garment that the brand launched, and since then it has been in the heart of the firm.It is very versatile.I love to design with her, I adore how she brings depth and texture to a piece, even when it is only in a neck or fist, she always creates a luxurious effect ".The same feeling sought (and achieved) by McCartney: after all, both companies are compromised since birth not to use skins and promote practices that seek a fashion free from animal suffering.It is the only future that both imagine, vision wrapped both for the popularization of this material ("many have stopped working with real skins, and that is a very positive step forward," says Weiland) and for the "interesting developments inThe industry, particularly with recycled and sustainable synthetic skin, ”argues Weiland.Because this is a paradigm change that goes beyond the anecdotal: “I see it having longevity.It is not a trend: synthetic skin is here to stay and it will be an essential material in any collection ”
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