Why niacinamide is the cosmetic ingredient that is on everyone's lips (and the favorite for sensitive skin)

It happened with hyaluronic acid, with retinol, with micellar water, and now with niacinamide: it's everywhere. Its use in cosmetics is not new, but the fame it has gained in the last year is, going from being an unpronounceable ingredient, to the asset that everyone looks for in their formulations. Why this unusual success? Undoubtedly, the famous niacinamide serum from The Ordinary that rules TikTok among the beauty routines of generation Z is largely to blame, although, of course, the real reason lies in its multiple benefits, in how easy it is to use (in principle, there are no contraindications) and how well it works for sensitive skin, which can sometimes find it difficult to find formulas that do not cause a reaction. To discover all its benefits and use guide, we spoke with several Pure Skincare experts (in whose brands we have been able to find this asset for quite some time).

What is niacinamide?

Before you know the how, you have to know the what. That is, what exactly is this ingredient that is talked about so much and where can we find it. As Elisabeth San Gregorio, technical director of Medik8, explains, “niacinamide is an active ingredient that actually corresponds to a vitamin, B3. It is part of a multitude of formulations with the aim of calming or balancing other principles that may cause irritation or sensitivity”. For this reason, although it has taken a special role in serums in which it is the essential component, the expert indicates that it can be found "within different formats and its uses are infinite, being able to be in tonics, masks, moisturizing creams or serums, among others." ”. In fact, vitamin B3 is naturally present in many foods, such as cereals, fish, meat and legumes.

What type of skin is it recommended for?

As we already mentioned, the most reactive skin types are especially adept at using this active ingredient, but they are not the only ones that will benefit from its benefits. This is confirmed by Estefanía Nieto, technical director of Omorovicza: “It is suitable for any skin. It is recommended especially in those who are sensitive or with outbreaks, due to its ability to reduce redness and irritation, as it is a great anti-inflammatory ”. The good news is that, in effect, this is not all it can do for our face, because, as the specialist points out, “it is beneficial for anyone, since it also has depigmenting and moisturizing properties. By calming, it is good for preventing possible future inflammatory processes, thus avoiding acne breakouts, sun spots, etc."

It's for this reason that niacinamide-containing cosmetics have become more popular with younger or acne-prone skin, and it's perhaps no coincidence that it's become so popular now that so many more people are suffering from maskne. Precisely, Valeria Navarro, technical director of Boutijour, indicates that "by calming, it also helps to maintain the barrier function of the skin, preventing it from being altered and the appearance of skin hypersensitivity, sometimes a consequence of emotional changes or physical elements, like the rubbing of the mask on the face ”. In fact, this protective action goes so far that it turns out to be especially effective in combating pollution, a recent 2019 study discovered, thanks to its ability to repair damaged DNA and its powerful antioxidant properties. It is for this reason that the specialist indicates that it can also be a very effective ingredient in more mature skin, since "skin is very angry, as we usually say, at the vital moment in which we find ourselves, because they somatize our feelings: sadness, stress, uncertainty… It also helps adult skin with the same adult acne, resolving hyperpigmentation and helping to unify the tone”.

The key to success is, therefore, finding a formula that not only contains niacinamide, but that is suitable for your skin type and needs. For example, for oily skin, prone to acne or very open pores, a light product with a watery texture is recommended, while for dry skin, a more nourishing and emollient cosmetic or a moisturizing toner will be perfect.

What concentrations is it usually found in?

“One of the biggest difficulties when working with niacinamide is preventing it from becoming nicotic acid. When this happens, we go from having a highly calming beginning, to one that is absolutely irritating. The key so that this does not happen is to work it at an adequate pH level”, indicates Elisabeth San Gregorio. Of course, the formulas that we can find on the market are safe and have been tested, but it follows from this difficulty that the concentrations that we can find are not particularly high: "Most of the products manage to have a percentage of between 2 % to 5% niacinamide, although there are occasions when it is possible to concentrate up to 10%”, points out the expert.

Does it have contraindications?

Taking into account that it is a perfect active ingredient for sensitive skin, it seems logical that it does not initially have any contraindications. And, indeed, Raquel González, director of education at Perricone MD confirms that this is the case, although she points out that there is usually some confusion about whether or not it can be used with vitamin C. "It is true that before they should not be combined, because the first derivatives Vitamin C, more unstable, did not work well together with vitamin B3, sometimes causing an effect contrary to the desired one. However, in current formulations, this does not occur. In fact, there are products on the market with a formulation that combines niacinamide and vitamin C derivatives," he clarifies.

What to use niacinamide with?

Since, as we mentioned before, it can be found in almost all types of cosmetics, its use will depend a lot on the product in question and the possibility of combining it with other assets is quite broad as it does not have contraindications. As Raquel González points out, “the equations are infinite. From applying it in a mask one day a week, to using it daily in toners, serums or creams. The order does not matter and will depend on the product in which it is present”. That said, some of their recommendations are to “apply it in the morning combined with a hyaluronic acid serum to maintain hydration during the day, or at night, to counteract possible irritation from certain retinoids or AHAs or BHAs. The principle, as such, does not require a specific time and will benefit the skin at any time of the day or at any step of the routine”, he recalls. And although we can use it throughout the year, in winter it is especially popular, precisely thanks to its ability to protect and restore the skin barrier, which is so damaged by the cold.

BUY: Perricone MD High Potency Classics Moisturizing Cream with Hyaluronic Acid and Niacinamide (€90).

BUY: Facial cleanser with niacinamide, from Rvolut Neo (€5.60).

BUY: Clarity Peptide Serum with peptide complex and 10% niacinamide, from Medik8 (€55).

BUY: Eye cream with niacinamide and ruscus, from TuDerma (€43).

BUY: Silver Skin Savior mask for skin with breakouts and marks with niacinamide, from Omorovicza (€82).

BUY: Snow lotus lifting mask pack with niacinamide, from Boutijour (€50).

BUY: Niacinamide Serum 12% + Zinc PCA 1%, from Beauty Drops (€6.95).

SHOP: Transparent Lab Time Reverse Beauty Sleep Mask with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and retinol (€16.95).

BUY: Balancing toner with vitamin B3, from 5punto5 (€28).

BUY: Niacinamide 10% Serum + Zinc 1%, from The Ordinary (€10.99).