Del Dior of the Galliano era to Haute Couture, these are the greatest vintage trends of 2022

At a time when the industry strives to become more and more sustainable, vintage is becoming a priority in our purchases: "It makes perfect sense," says Cherie Balch of Shrimpton Couture, convinced that the prevailing desire to make the old new is not just a fad. As we embrace a greener mindset, consumers have fallen in love with the romance of archival looks. "There's something very special about vintage items," explains Balch, who counts Rihanna and Tracee Ellis Ross among her clients. "They have a certain magic that prevents you from passing by."

While 2021 saw the '90s dominate vintage shopping headlines, this year sees a shift toward pieces that transcend trends. Investing well is paramount, and fashion fans sharpen their claws for rare collectibles, exquisite couture, and jewelry that can be personalized and made even more unique. Even the most astute buyers are investing with a vision of the future, snatching up popular treasures from current designers hoping that they will become the equivalent of John Galliano's Dior in the coming decades.

Here, the world's best vintage fashion vendors reveal the one-of-a-kind pieces of fashion history to chase this year, or as Cherie puts it: “Those things you'd never find on the bucks of a store modern”.

The Greatest Hits of the 2000s

While Galliano's Dior stole hearts last year, today's vintage hunters, according to Balch, are after any Dior treasure. But why this popularity competition? “I think there's a real love-hate relationship with modern Dior right now, and that leads a lot of people to go back in time to find the clothes they loved so much and still love now,” Cherie explains. From Time's Up, the Copenhagen emporium frequented by Naomi Campbell, Lady Gaga and Jane Birkin, its founder, Jesper Richardy, predicts a resurgence of Nicolas Ghesquière's Balenciaga and Rick Owens of the mid-early 2000s; while in Depop, Roberto Cavalli's two-thousander milestones are the most in demand.

"Cavalli was ahead of her time by using fabrics that flatter many different sizes, I think her dresses will be in demand for a long time to come," says Clare O'Donnell of Depop platform @edenvintage_, well-stocked with the nostalgic runway prints from the brand, including chinoise motifs and amour tattoo. Cavalli's current creative director, Fausto Puglisi, is capitalizing on the growing interest in the brand's classic emblems and has brought back the iconic tiger print from fall-winter 2000 for spring/summer 2022. "The original prints they'll be a good investment as the market always skyrockets when archival pieces are brought back onto the runway," continues O'Donnell, who hopes Kylie Jenner, Zendaya and Bella Hadid's devotion to Cavalli will help fuel the trend. demand. "If you act fast, you can get your hands on one of these dresses before the prices start to rise."

Don't lose sight of the fashion game of chairs either. "When an iconic designer leaves a house, interest always picks up because customers want to pick up that designer's latest collection," says Hattie Hawksworth, editor-in-chief of Farfetch, who successfully runs the second-hand fashion division. Bottom line, grab the latest from Daniel Lee for Bottega Veneta while you can.

Classics are called classics for a reason

If you've always wanted a Chanel bag, make 2022 the year you take home a gorgeous plush quilted style. "After several price increases in the last 12 months, the double-flap bag will soon reach the value of the Hermès Kelly," said Claudia Ricco, founder and CEO of Rewind Vintage Affairs Limited. Therefore, buying it will be "just as impossible."

Hawksworth, pondering her own dilemma over Chanel bags – "classic or special?" – notes that Farfetch users are making good use of the e-retailer's Donate service, whereby they can sell their already-loved items for store credit and help ease the pocketbook shock of their big vintage purchases. "It sounds cliché, but I think we're seeing a return to traditional luxury items, to those once-in-a-lifetime whimsy purchases," says Hattie, adding that Bulgari's Serpenti watch is also It's on your wish list.

But what about the new classics? Ricco's background as an expert in vintage luxury fashion, and with a 20-year-old daughter obsessed with eco-fashion, puts her in a prime position to predict which designers today will stand the test of time in such a saturated market: "Brands newer or emerging sustainable brands will undoubtedly be part of the future vintage [because] younger consumers buy very differently," explains Claudia, who believes that Jacquemus will be a sure success in a few years.

Divine Couture

Old fashioners, addicted to the thrill of a treasure hunt and the dopamine rush of hunting for an item on eBay, are drifting from vintage to vintage territory. venture into the realm of haute couture. "It's the pinnacle of fashion and you can still find pieces for all budgets if you search hard," says Ricco, noting that Gripoix, YSL and Chanel are his most requested brands: "When you find them, you think It's amazing to have a piece of history in your hands and see the work and the great construction that goes into it. You know that you have something in your hands that very few people can access today."

Unique pieces with specialized followers

Likewise, 'scarce' is going to become a frequent word in the vintage vocabulary. Sophie Quy, Vice President of Brands at Threads Styling, says the personal shopping platform has seen a strong increase in customers requesting one-of-a-kind custom accessories. Ricco, for his part, claims to be looking for unique collection pieces from brands like Maison Martin Margiela, Mugler and Comme Des Garçons, specializing in rare fashion designs that border on the artistic, with a very specific cult following. "While fashion is becoming more homogeneous globally and there is less and less space for local brands, vintage fashion offers the opportunity to find truly special and timeless items," says Richardy.

Bold Jewelry

"It's well known that name-brand jewelry holds its value the longest and even increases it," says Depop's O'Donnell, always on the hunt for iconic pieces by Christian Lacroix and Chanel. “Bold jewelry is back in force thanks to Schiaparelli's Daniel Roseberry, so prices will most likely increase this year.” At Rewind Vintage Affairs Limited, everyone wants couture jewelery from the 1980s and 1990s, while at Threads Styling, the demand for bespoke watches has increased by more than 100% in the last year alone.

As always, Gen Z will shop their way

If you're less of Chanel and more of TikTok, Penny Lane is the muse to know, according to the Depop army. Selena Williams, from @selenashop, bets heavily on the coats worn by 70s rockers – like Kate Hudson's character in the 2000 film Almost Famous – and her 90s recreations.